I am in love with the The Assembly Line Puff Sleeve Blouse, it is just that simple. I love the style and finish of the boatneck neckline and the puff sleeves with the hidden cuff are a feat of subtle, stylish design.
I knew that I wanted to make a blouse with a dramatic sleeve using the stretch Eyelet Lace from Zelouf Fabrics because of the great detail in the fabric and the great effect created by the sheerness of the eyelet. I loved this fabric from the moment it arrived in the mail. Zelouf Fabrics has a fantastic selection of fabrics on their website. They will send you really big sample sizes of fabric which completely takes the guesswork out of choosing fabric online. Simply choose up to 10 samples that you like and when they arrive order your fabric. I love their fabric selections and this fool proof way of getting exactly what you want. https://zelouffabrics.com/
The question was, how was I going to create a bodice that still showed off the eyelet but didn't need the extra fuss of a camisole underneath. I had some very thin cotton broadcloth in my stash, it was from the lining from the vintage curtain fabric I used when used when I make my Alice Tent Dress.
What I wanted to create flat lining for the front and back bodice instead of using interfacing for the neckline so that there would be fuss free full coverage, that blended into the sheer sleeve. This blog post outlines how I sewed all pattern pieces together to achieve this effect.
I made a size large which was just large enough for me. If your bust line is greater then 42" the pattern sizing will not be large enough, the sizing doesn't extend beyond a size large- hopefully this is something that the company will remedy going forward. To begin with I cut a full front and back bodice out of both the eyelet lace and the thin cotton .
I cut interfacing based on the pattern pieces that come with the pattern and ironed it the backside of the cotton lining to give it some structure.
Match the thin cotton pattern piece with the eyelet right sides together, pinning along the neckline just like you would to attach the interfacing. Sew the lining to the bodice. Once the lining is attached flip the fabric so the right side is facing out and press the neckline flat. Now you are ready to flatline the bodice. Simply baste stitch the cotton to the eyelet lace along the side seam. Do this with both the front and back bodice, making sure you are attaching the cotton lining to the wrong side of the eyelet to ensure that the neckline has a proper finish and looks complete. This picture shows the finished neckline, then pinning and basting the lining to the side seams of the bodice.
I used the finished hem of the cotton for the hem of the lining. If your hem is not finished make sure to either overlock the edge or finish the hem before you attach the piece together for flat lining.
Now when you sew the front bodice to the back both the cotton lining and the lace are basted together and they sew up as one piece. The result is an evenly sewn bodice that is completely lined. Once the bodice is sewn together finish the seams with an overlocker and press your seams flat.
At this point you have a lined bodice with a finished neckline. The only thing left is to attach the sleeves as per the pattern instructions. I used the thin cotton lining for the cuff of the sleeve. The eyelet pattern is too large for it to be stable enough to house the elastic cuff. Once the cuff is tucked up into the sleeve is simply blends in with the rest of the flatlining.
The end result is a classic blouse that is a fantastic addition to your wardrobe. No matter what fabric you choose, this pattern will be a showstopper because after all...
there is Sew Much To Design!
Happy Sewing,
Lou Sheffer